The Slovenian capital of Ljubljana may appear to be just another quaintly idyllic, historically rich, economically tourist friendly Central-European city. But if you poke around the city a bit and start asking some questions, you will quickly discover that this charming city has a robust and thriving alternative and countercultural art scene. At the very heart of this scene is the vaunted Metelkova mesto. The Mesto is an interconnected network of buildings and open spaces which (depending on the time of day) function as galleries, studios, bars, night clubs, music venues, lecture halls, internet clubs, youth centers, libraries, restaurants and pretty much anything else you can imagine. On any given day or night of the week, and at any time of year, there is always something going on somewhere at Metelkova. In 2006, this self sustaining community is possibly the most artistically dynamic, musically vibrant, creatively experimental and intelectually progressive places in all of Central Europe. Metelkova mesto did not appear out of nowhere however. The history of this incredible place is as dramatic and contreversial as the art that it supports. Following is a brief history of Metelkova written by those that fought long and hard to bring it into existence and that continue to work tirelessly to coordinate and create its diverse projects, performances and programs.

Tim Chase

History of Metlkova mesto-

Metelkova is the commonly referred-to name of the former "Fourth of July" Military Barracks, along Metelkova street in Ljubljana, Slovenia. Urbanistically-architecturally speaking Metelkova is made up of two complementing parts: the Southern and the Northern section. The story of Metelkova mesto, which is comprised exclusively of the Northern section, begins in the second half of the eighties when a strong national independence movement succeeded in igniting a vibrant social cultural scene in Ljubljana. An initiative to convert the military barracks along Metelkova street into a multicultural center sprung up and over 200 individuals and groups joined into the Network for Metelkova. In April 1992, a good half a year after the Yugoslav Peoples Army's departure from Ljubljana, the newly formed Government of the Republic of Slovenia assigned the ultimate purpose of the barracks to be that of the program of the Network for Metelkova. It all seemed to be going the way the protagonists of the Network had planned.... Accept for the fact that the Ljubljana City Government was determined to destroy the barracks so they slowled the legal proceedings down to a crawl. The Network did not want another winter to take its toll on the buildings and so they planned an occupation of the buildings should legal attempts to acquire them fail. Under public pressure, the City Council promised to answer the unresolved matters. And it did?

On the 9th of September, the City Council responded to the Network's requests by attempting an unannounced and illegal demolition of Metelkova mesto. In response to this act, approxamitely 150 self-organised individuals took up occupation in the Northern Section of Metelkova barracks. A week later, the City Council ruled to disconnect power as well as the water supply. Despite these hardships, a rich and inspiring cultural program was organised and actuated. In only the first few months (September to December 1993) there were over 200 happenings at Metelkova (art exhibitions, concerts, literary readings, theatre plays and performances, etc.). Many individuals and groups invested a lot of time and effort into securing proper living and working conditions.

The initial enthusiasm of the Network eventually began to give way once the winter set in. A lot of people left Metelkova, some angry, some disappointed, some tired. Due to the impossible conditions (working and living in utter darkness and cold), there were vandalisms, burglaries and robberies. Only a few activities remained at Metelkova. In the face of these mounting setbacks and growing sense of apathy, a new enlarged Network for Metelkova was assembled. It reconstituted itself into an association of individuals, and legal entities and together they created a new organizationel model - the Institution of Retina. The job of Retina was to help settle the situation at Metelkova and then to become a kind of a service or umbrella for non-govrnmental organisations. From January to April 1994, there was no formal organization at Metelkova, and the groups and individuals thus had to organize themselves.

In the summer of 1994 the Slovene Government made a crucial decision to assign the unoccupied Southern Section of Metelkova to the Ministry of Culture - to be used by the Slovene Ethnographic Museum, the National Museum, the gallery of Modern Arts and the Rectorate of the Rep. Slovenia for the Protection of Natural Heritage. One building, however, Metelkova 6, was assigned for needs of non-institutional culture. The idea of conversion was approaching its final realisation. At the end of 1994, the City authorities decided that the Nothern Section needed to be settled as well. The people of Metelkova together with architect Kevin Kaufman from New York produced the Metelkova Developement Plan, a plan which layed out structural solutions for the individual buildings. On the 10th of December the roof of Sola building burned down, and later water soaked the entire building. The squatters living there moved to other buildingschasing some of the remaining artists out of their studios.

In 1995, the mayor of Ljubljana, the people of Metelkova and Retina signed a Protocol on settling the Metelkova situation once and for all. An agreement was signed to arrange rent contracts as well as standards for acceptable working conditions. In September 1996, The Lovci buiding, the best-kept building of the complex, was the first to get water and electricity. Channel Zero and Gala hala performance halls in the Pesci building also received electricity and subsequently distributed it throughout the whole complex. Thus the process of creating and organizing cultural programs at Metelkova became a permanent reality.

Philosophy and Actions at Metelkova mesto

Like any other real city, Metelkova mesto (mesto =city) also embraces public spaces intended for association, amusement, flow of information and inspiration. Although sometimes the opinion prevails that Metelkova mesto is one single artist's studio, the place actually offers a whole bunch of other adventures. Namely, if Metelkova did not have any open public space, the majority of us would not have anything to do there, would we? Who would like to hang around in a studio?

Open spaces at Metelkova, which host various events, are of considerable quality: lectures, debates of all kinds, film, day-dreaming, sports competitions, feminist workshops, homosexual bars, planning of more direct forms of activism. The different venues and clubs are: SOT-24 Club (youth handicapped deprivileged club), Monokel Club (lesbian), Tiffany Club (gay), Elf's Reading Room (anarchist's library), 100% Mizzart Club (party), Channel Zero (concerts, parties), Club Gromka (concerts, parties, movies, talks, theatre, performances), Menza pri koritu (concerts, movies, talks, theatre, performances, youth activities), Jalla Jalla (arabic kitchen) and Gala Hall (concerts, parties)! There is no time or excuse for boredom! Along with all of this, the open spaces at Metelkova mesto contributes significantly to the growth of social (political) awareness of both the Metelkova mesto dwellers and visitors..

Although Metelkova mesto will probably remain a permanent fixture on the chopping block of Ljubljana City Planners and Property Developers, its founders and current administrators remain steadfastly unintimidated and resolute in their commitment to Metelkova's community and progressive ethos. Check out www.metelkova.org to find out more about this fascinating place and to see what kind of programming is in store in the future at each of the various venues.

And of course, never forget to cultivate your awareness!

Founders of Metelkova Mesto, Edited: Tim Chase